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Old 06-29-2017, 05:30 PM   #1
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: etobicoke
Posts: 725
E39 non DSP speaker upgrade DIY

1. Front speaker: Brand new DB6501 6.5 Polk components 100 Watt RMS
2. Rear speaker: Kenwood coaxial 80 Watt RMS
3. Subwoofer: 10 inch MTX 300 Watt RMS
4. Amps: Kenwood X600f 4 channel amp- 600 Watt RMS
Rockford Fosgate 2 channel amp 75 Watt RMS
5. Some cheap MDF wood
6. 3 sets of RCA cables, 10 feet of 4 gauge wire and 10 feet of 8 gauge wire, 1 80 watt fuse, and 1 40 watt fuse, 4 wire hooks connectors.

Some basics when shopping
-Cruthfield has a good run down on basics
-'RMS' watt is the continuous power your speaker or amp can always play and is the number you have to look at. It is good to buy an amp that has more RMS watt capacity than the combined amount of all your speaker. My combined front and rear speakers total an RMS watt of 360 and my amp can play 600.


1. I have a double din JVC headunit with RCA outs. So I just ran 3 sets of RCAs to the trunk. 2 for the front and rear speakers to my Kenwood amp and 1 to the Rockford that powered my sub. I ran them along the drivers side, along the existing wiring harness going to the trunk.

2. Now that the amp has input signals, you need to connect your output signal wires. These color coded wires are already there and connected to your current speakers. I used the following for the my front.
yellow/red(+), yellow/brown (-) - Front left
blue/red (+), blue/brown (-) - Front right

3. Next I wired up the amp for its power and ground. My amp can peak to 1200 watts, so I got really thick 4 gauge wire for its ground and power. Consult your amps manual. I Ran the power from the positive battery terminal and the ground to the battery ground (you can ground it closer to the amp on the chassis somewhere too). About 5 feet was a bit short for the power wire, and so that wire is laying across my spare tire. Fuse goes between positive battery and amp. Finally there should be a blue wire in the trunk harness. Thats your turn on wire for the amp. It gets power when your headunit is turned on.

4. Now you should be able to hear some sound out of your current speakers. It may sound like garbage but at least you know the amp is setup.

5. Now the fun part. Take off the door panel. Its easy. Take out your stock speaker and connect your new speaker, just to see if it sounds good. If it does then you can either install it in the existing speaker mount, also called a baffle. and be done with it. I went from our stock 5.25 inch to 6.5 inch for more bass so I built my own baffle to make it fit. It was easy and cheap. My speakers are components meaning a mid and tweeter, so they came with a splitter. I wired the aforementioned color codes wires to the splitter first then to the mid and tweeter. I hid the splitter behind the baffler and glued the tweeter in place. I also put soundproof material in key places.

6. At this point I was happy with just the front speakers. Huge improvement in bass and quality with the Db6501s.

7. Later I found a steal on kijiji. I got a 10 inch Subwoofer in a sub box, 4 coaxial kenwood 80 watt 6.5 speakers and 2 small fosgate amps for 150 bucks. Wired 8 gauge for the power and ground to the fosgate and spliced into the blue turn on wire. Connected the rca cables to it and good to go. I also made baffles for the rear deck, and repeated the same process for the fronts.

before installing sub

I'll take more pics of the wiring setup and sub later. But overall it sounds amazing and really clear and powerful. Another thing to mention is you will have many rattles. All the door handles, the top of the trunk, the sunroof motor were rattling for me. Not hard to fix. Total budget was as follows:
Used Kenwood Amp - 300 (keeping this thing forever)
Front Components - 200
Wiring, fuses, connectors, sound proof material - 100
Sub, 2 amps, 4 coaxials - 150
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