Click to go to Forum Home Click to go to maXbimmer Home

Go Back   maXbimmer Forums > General > General Discussion
User Name
Password


Welcome to Maxbimmer.com!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 12-21-2003, 09:53 PM   #1
SebSter
6th Gear Member
 
SebSter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Toronto
Posts: 3,414
anyone try this?

cutting the shifter rod on an e30 cuz it sticks up pretty high, i dont like how it looks and think shifting would be smoother too

i was thinking to just take about an half an inch to an inch off it, what kind of saw would i need to use? and has anyone done this and can provide some info?
SebSter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2003, 11:45 PM   #2
Mystikal
Moderator/Event-Coordinator
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Stance
Posts: 12,765
Oh God, don't do it.

The best upgrade for E30's is the shifter from Z3's and Z4's. All of the equipment is less than $100USD shipped, and drops right in. The Z4 3.0 shifter has the shortest throw and shortest height, it's insane.
__________________

@stancejay
Mystikal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 01:53 AM   #3
KC Ron Carter
1st Gear Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Kansas City, MO USA
Posts: 28
shifters

Short Shifter


I use the UUC and the roller bearings and it is smooth.
I have the length of the shifter set to the lowest possible.
It is as very good but if I did want even smoother I could use a weighted shift knob, see the UUC site.



This is a BAS.


It will remove all play.



But if budget limited:



The distance above the pivot point if short will make the throw shorter.

Just like a teeter-totter on the kid’s playground.

Also if the shifter is longer below the pivot point it moves farther for the same distance movement above.

So both will change the shifting.

You should not require a new rod from the shifter to the transmission unless you have the Guibo mounted balance, then clearance can require a change or rod modification.

You can reuse your plastic bushing also but you will need to cut it on one side plus the washer and thread the spring off. I would also recommend a lot of white lithium grease to provide long term health.

I would recommend the z3-2.8/3.0 as the best of both worlds.
Shorter on the top, 4 inches to the pivot point, and somewhat longer on the bottom.


These will mount in the e24 both the sheet metal, early up to 87, and the extruded aluminum shifting plates, after 87.

This is a DIY project for most e24 owners.

The Z3 has a slight bend and is more ergonomically correct. It puts the knob a little aft of the others.

Distance from the pivot to the lower rod bearing point is the major change in shortening the shift distance. Remember any change in length is increasing the needed force.

Here are the P/N for the later extruded shifter

(1) 25-11-1-221-977 (E36 M3 shift lever) - $35.40
”(1) 25-11-1-220-832 (bushing) - $9.20”
(3) 25-11-1-220-439 (yellow spacer) - $0.41 each
(1) 25-11-1-220-379 (clip, i think) - $0.56
(1) 25-11-7-501-309 (front joint assembly) - $18.32
(2) 25-11-1-221-243 (O-ring) - $1.00 each
(1) 07-11-9-932-863 (lock washer) - $0.06
”(1) 25-11-1-220-912 (front console bushing, i think) - $9.68 “
(1) 25-11-1-469-397 (shift lever plastic cup) - $5.96
(1) 25-11-1-220-837 (reverse light wire retaining clip) - $0.30
”(1) 25-11-1-220-707 (rear shift console support) - $14.80”
(1) 07-12-9-946-400 (hex nut) - $0.20
(1) 25-11-1-203-682 (bushing of some sort, possibly felt tab) - $1.20
(1) 25-11-1-434-194 (washer) - $0.40

Total Cost: $99.31
“” are those not required for earlier sheet metal shifters. Before 6/1987.

For sheet metal shifters here are the additions:

(1) 23-41-1-466-110 (Upper sheet metal plastic bushing) requires cutting to install.
(1) 25-11-1-207-744 (Lower plastic bushing) big wear point.
(1) 25-11-1-204-422 (Aft shifter rubber mount)
(1) 25-11-1-220-581 (Rubber dust cover) gets torn every time, needed?

Later,
__________________
KC Ron Carter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 05:14 AM   #4
SebSter
6th Gear Member
 
SebSter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Toronto
Posts: 3,414
well see i already have one of those, i believe from the z3 2.8/3.0 but its still too tall for my liking.. the throw is fine its pretty short i just dont like how it sits so high

meh w/e, i guess ur right cutting it is pretty ghetto
SebSter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 04:55 PM   #5
Mystikal
Moderator/Event-Coordinator
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Stance
Posts: 12,765
Just buy the Z4 rod. I'll buy the Z3 3.0 one off you, I have to leave mine pretty high (I have the BMW armrest). Next meet can I look at yours to test the height?
__________________

@stancejay
Mystikal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 04:58 PM   #6
SebSter
6th Gear Member
 
SebSter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Toronto
Posts: 3,414
yeah sure thing

dunno bout getting the z4 one right now though i dont really have the money to spend maybe more towards springtime, but yeah ill show it to you at the meet? is yours stock right now?
SebSter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:43 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.