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Old 03-08-2013, 08:22 AM   #1
E36 Power
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Bolt extraction? - axle torx bolts 2 stuck

Im in the process of dropping the rear subframe and taking the differential out

Only problem is that I managed to removed 10/12 rear axle bolts. The other two were literally rounded out to circles. It was retarded.

I ground off the heads off those 2 bolts

How good are those bolt extractors? Pretty much my only option is to use one

How easy is it to use one of these? From what i understand, you drill a smaller hole then the extractor and hammer in this tool and reverse it out and it should grab the bolt

Ive soaked the bolt in PB blaster. Just such a headache / mess
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:21 AM   #2
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If you have ground off the heads, remove the axles and then view grip to remove the studs.

You should be able to lower the diff and slide it to one side to get it off the one axle with the studs left on the ears

If you can't get the studs left behind off the diff ear, change the diff ear after, but with a little heat you should be able to get the rest of the bolt off
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:34 AM   #3
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I dont understand what you mean by removing the axles - the axles are attached to the diff via those 6 bolts per side. the passanger side is free but driver side has the two stuck

I cant get vice grips on it. there isnt enough to grab

I can see the bolts end / thread to the center opposite the head thats ground off but I can get vice grips in there either to untwist it.

Im just worried that I mess up drilling into the bolt and the extractor doesnt work

I can drop the whole assembly with diff in tact still and attached to the axle. BUt eventually its going to have to come out

THEN WHAT!? So pissed.
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:40 AM   #4
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You have ground the heads off the axle bolts and just the stud is left going through the axle, so lower the diff, the studs that are left will slide out the other axle, leaving a 2 inch or so stud that's threaded into the diff ear. Use vise grips to turn out what you have led of the diff bolt on the diff ear.
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:14 AM   #5
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The stud is left connecting to the diff. Im not picturing this or Im missnig the boat here

The 12 torx bolts connect the shafts to the diff. 10 are off, one side the rear axle is free. the driver side has 2 remaining and those two, theheads are off.
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:25 AM   #6
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Yes, missing the point...once the head is off, it just comes out . No threds in the axle, so simply pulls out. Done this several times, always works!
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Old 03-08-2013, 12:13 PM   #7
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Heres the picture of the bolt thats suck and ground off

Theres threads on these torx bolts though holding them in. I dont get the "pop out" bit

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Old 03-08-2013, 01:56 PM   #8
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wedge a screw driver between the axle and diff plate and pry it away; as mentioned it should just drop or slide away. you're making it far more difficult then it is. :-) once the studs are exposed use some heat and twist out with Vise grips as mentioned.

note: you may have to ground the head flush - from the pic it doesn't look like it has been ground enough
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:38 PM   #9
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If the head is off the threads no longer have anything to push against. That's why everyone is saying it should pull out.
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:07 PM   #10
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Update here...

So heres where Im at...

Ive dropped the rear subframe completely and the diff is out of it. But I now have 2 problems here...

Theres one of the 2 remaining bolts in the rear axle that I ground the heads off. HOw the hell do I remove that? The plate on the axle behind the bolt which is circled in orange is blocking me from getting anything on it.

You can see the end of the bolt there circled but again, the plate / orange is protecting me from getting at it






AND even more broken bolts ...

5/6 header to exhaust nuts just snapped right off the bolt

So im left with 5 studs that need replacing - How do you get these out? I dont have power tools at my disposal. Hammer and a blow torch?

I should probably remove the O2 sensor up there on the header before I begin hammering away?

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Last edited by E36 Power; 03-12-2013 at 11:29 PM.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:48 AM   #11
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Here we go;
The only thing holding A and B is age/rust...If you hit at C, it WILL come appart, sometimes not easy, but it will!!! After that, heat and vise grips will do the job on the stud.

For the header, best way is to get a new (used) one, its not expensive and will save you tons of headaches!
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:39 AM   #12
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Alright thanks for the direction Fil.

Gonna start banging at the C line there now

For the headers though, it seems that the studs failing is common with the heat and age of the cars especially if original.

The replacement is 25 a stud (OUCH), but I would rather replace the studs then repklace the header and have those studs fail again. If that makes sense

Aka, rather heat them up and bang away? Ive got room to get a few lb mini sledge at it. Should I disconnect the O2 sensor from the header though before hammering?
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:05 PM   #13
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After you get them out, most people just use bolts and nuts, works fine from what I've seen
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Old 03-13-2013, 04:38 PM   #14
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Im reading the same

BUt just to be sure, the remaining 6 studs are not threaded in right?

So im safe to remove the O2 sensor and hammer away up at them??
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Old 03-13-2013, 04:52 PM   #15
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^That is correct. the same thing happened on my e46. I had to drill out the studs, and then use bolts/nuts.
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