but you see thats not my opinion.
that is fact, period. And others have pointed it out. Your particular set up is not any different than other zkw or depos with hid's in them. Doesnt matter that its your car. Those set ups are all the same(stock depo/zkw with hids in them). They do not have the proper optics for HID's. plain and simple.
you are giving off glare and upticks like all of them and its rude, dangerous and inconsiderate of other motorist. you dont see a problem with it = rice. there isnt anything more to it. thats the bottom line. ive said my piece.
you can laugh it off or try to come up with some other bs excuses for it, try to point the blame at me, but facts are facts and you are in the wrong.
maybe one day you will actually do some research on it and clue in because you obviously dont want to listen to me or others here.
i just tested it out, my buddy was driving my car and i ws drivng my buddys car ( e46 )
i drove by my own car going the other way ( simulating oncoming traffic )
and it doesnt blind me.
only when i was driving on the right side of my own car the light was little bright .
just like if i was driving infront of a ragne rover or a jaguar.
my gf has a E320 , and the xenon light stays on day or night, and thats OEM headlights, that blinds more people, because she keeps telling me other people high beams her all the time.
i just proved u wrong. myheadlight do not blind oncoming traffic, only the cars on the far right lanes. lol
because its how the zkw headlights are made, so it lights up the road signs.
u SiR only gather ur facts on the internet, go out side and do some real life research please. lol
__________________
Last edited by noodles101; 12-20-2011 at 04:58 PM.
since when are hid's in depos considered rice.. i've also never been high beamed by anybody when i was running hid's in depo's, sir man i think your taking this topic a little too seriously, one piece kijiji headlights are rice, how can oem looking glass headlighs with properly aligned headlights be rice..
noodles, just align the headlights a little better and enjoy
because the optics and cut off are not designed for the hid bulbs/output.
there is no arguing against it. Maybe its the engineer it me or the safety issue of it or the fact I would want to do it right...but its an incorrect method of doing things. You want to run HID ? do a proper retrofit with an HID projector(tsx,fxr what have you).
Dropping in a cheap kit into halogen projectors is just wrong. Its not a matter of opinion.
Its rice because its the wrong way to do the mod and blinds other motorists, all the while you think its perfectly fine.
next thing you know noodles is gonna proclaim his 6000k or 10k bulbs are brighter than 4300k is lol.
Spend the time and do some research on it.
shit here Ill even give you a link to EDUCATE on it since people seem to lazy to spend 2 mins on google
Yeah I'm not sure. I have Bosch lights with stock H1 Bulbs with the OEM cutoff and have never had a problem blinding anyone. Only had that issue when I used to have HIDs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve30
what kind of halogens are you guys using?? I had some in my bosch and I couldn't see anything..
Since we are all talking about headlight, i wanted to share a little info on bulbs from the bulb expert Mr. Daniel stern. Sent him an email couple years ago after reading an article he wrote and he replied with this info.
JFY. his article is still up for those interested :p
For reference, here's manufacturer data for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs. The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not significantly so. I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type we consider (H4, 9006, whatever). Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the bulbs have failed.
H1 (regular normal):
1550 lumens, 650 hours
Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+")
1460 lumens, 1200 hours
Ultra Long Life (or "DayLight")
1430 lumens, 3000 hours
Plus-30 High Efficacy (CPI BrightLight, Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower, Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium):
1700 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (CPI Super Bright Light, Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar):
1750 lumens, 350 hours
Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker):
1780 lumens, 340 hours
Blue coated 'extra white' (CPI Bright Light Blue, Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra, also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc):
1380 lumens, 250 hours
So that's the pattern for how lifespan and light output are related. It's worth noting that the lumen differences are not the extent of the performance differences. The filament changes required to make a long-life bulb tend to reduce the beam focus, which shortens seeing distance. And, the light color is less white and more brown. But lifespan is lengthened. The opposite filament changes are made to create the "Plus" (+30, +50, +80, +90) type bulbs: Lifespan is reduced, but the beam focus is better so seeing distance is longer. Light color is whiter and less brown. The takeaway message here is that even if all the filaments put out exactly the same amount of light — the same lumens from a long life, a +30, a +50, a regular, an ultralong-life, etc. — the headlamp performance and appearance with the long-life bulb would still be inferior compared to the same headlamp performance and appearance with a regular, or +30, or +50, or +80 bulb.
Granted, this Daniel Stern character is obviously very knowledgeable, but he is obviously also what people like to call a "purist". He's probably also dead against lowering cars and running low-offset wheels with stretched tires, but we all do that too, right? That, and he's writing from a position of bias: he has a vested interest in dissuading people from buying off-the-shelf aftermarket kits.
So, while retrofitting HIDs into halogen projectors is not an ideal setup, It still can be done in such a way that it improves lighting while being less offensive than many factory HID setups. Of course this also depends on which projector you have, but in my experience with the ZKWs it's not that bad. I'll be trying it in some E30 US ellips soon as well.
REPLACE THE CUTOFF WITH THE UPTICK WITH A UNITONE EVEN CUTOFF, NO UPTICK, ITS A FRIGGIN metal plate!!!! OR, stick some alloy tape on the uptick and done, nice even cutoff.
because the optics and cut off are not designed for the hid bulbs/output.
there is no arguing against it. Maybe its the engineer it me or the safety issue of it or the fact I would want to do it right...but its an incorrect method of doing things. You want to run HID ? do a proper retrofit with an HID projector(tsx,fxr what have you).
Dropping in a cheap kit into halogen projectors is just wrong. Its not a matter of opinion.
Its rice because its the wrong way to do the mod and blinds other motorists, all the while you think its perfectly fine.
next thing you know noodles is gonna proclaim his 6000k or 10k bulbs are brighter than 4300k is lol.
Spend the time and do some research on it.
shit here Ill even give you a link to EDUCATE on it since people seem to lazy to spend 2 mins on google
would you throw a turbo on your car without the appropriate accompanying mods?
no, you wouldnt.
lighting is no different...in fact its even more important, due to its effect on other motorists.
Ive done my own proper retrofits before. I know what I am talking about. noodles obviously doesnt.
If you have projectors, replacing the cutoff plate with a uptick-less one fixes your issues.
Or, simply, stick aluminum tape onto the plate you have to cover the uptick. Problem solved, everyone is happy
Otherwise i agree, if you do NOT have projectors, you have NO business with HIDs. If you have projectors, change your cutoff plate!
before i get flamed with HID fogs, e36 oem hella fogs are designed in such a fashion that a hid bulb inside does not blind traffic, and puts out decent light. They complement the rectangular light pattern beam of a hid bulb because they are rectangular. That being said, ONLY the hellas work well. ZKWs DO NOT work well with hid bulbs and the light pattern is wrong and scattered ( different more circular reflector design, HID bulbs require rectangular reflectors)
The problem is that you're running an HID bulb in an enclosure designed for an H1 bulb. It's that simple. There is no way to get around it unless you
a) Install H1's
b) Retrofit proper HID projectors (i.e. TSX lights)
There's no point in arguing if you're blinding people or not. You are. There's no getting around it. Whether or not you care is entirely up to you, but know that a lot of people get pissed off. Not to mention safety concerns especially when the road is reflective (i.e. rain).
Here is a great video series on what options we have for E36's:
These people are also blinding other people. Just because they do it doen't make it "right" (or legal, for that matter). You also have to remember that the e36 is very attractive to a young demographic because of the low cost of entry. HID retrofits tend to be popular with this demographic as well and unfortunately there is no real way to do it properly on e36's unless you spend a whack of money on a TSX retrofit (which still has to be rigged to aim properly).
I would love a pair of Bosch headlights and if/when I get them, I will be using the H1's in they were designed for.
Again, if you don't have exprience with projectors , do not give advice.
1. Bosch are not sealed projectors, and they need to have the second reflector dechromed+ cutoff plate changed ( these have 2 reflectors behind the projector socket, one is for the actual projector, the second sends the light around the projector socket and this is what caused the biggest issue)
2. Depos are a replica of zkws and do not suffer from the same issue, however light still leaks a bit around the projector socket and requires the secondary reflector to be blacked out or dechromed + cutoff plate mod ( depos use CHROME for the secondary reflector, unlike zkws)
3. ZKWs are a more true sealed beam projector, they do not leak light and require the cut off plate mod ONLY
4. e36projector units based on depos ( these have built in angel eyes, no second glass like a e39) are sealed projectors and also only require the cut off plate to be modifed to remove the uptick.
Before I get blasted, I currently own ALL 4 of these lamps, and after intensive studying, the optics are not much different then OEM hid optics. They are rectangular reflectors just like oem HID projectors, and except for the bosch and depo bosch style reps, only require the cutoff plate to be modifed to work properly.
Another thing to be aware of are CHEAP HID KITS which do NOT have the bulb mounted in properly.
A HID bulb is like a LED in terms of light output and 100% directional, it needs to be inserted into the projector with the filament facing UP, so that the bulb shoots light downwards, which then passes the cutoff plate and then gets reversed by the projector lense. Improperly constructed hid bulbs, ones that do NOT have the filament facing directly up when the bulb is inserted will cause massive lighting issues. HIDs do NOT shoot light out like halogens , in a circular manner, rather, they do it on a rectangular parabola, therefore , if the bulb is installed wrong, it will blind, shoot light in the wrong direction, etc. BE WARY OF CHEAP KITS, MANY HAVE THE BULB POSITIONED UPSIDE DOWN IN THE HOLDER, and the effects are very adverse.
I can proudly say my e36 has e36projectors based on depos installed still and with the modified cutoff plates, it is EXACTLY like the sprinter. No blinding, no crazy shoulder light up towards roadsigns.
For comparison's sake , the sprinter is OEM projector-ed, 4300k , with electronic self leveling.
Also, COLOUR is a VERY BIG ISSUE WITH HIDS. STICK TO 4300K, and you will a. NOT have glare b. Be able to see way more in the wet c. be able to run 35W bulbs with the same performance as blinding 6000k 50W bulbs, but without the blinding
That, and he's writing from a position of bias: he has a vested interest in dissuading people from buying off-the-shelf aftermarket kits.
U wrong.
Linear Mode
