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Old 10-19-2012, 11:43 AM   #31
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It's possible but a lot of work.

Look at my engine build. I have 232WHP with stock S52 cams, overbore, and 11.5:1 pistons. Runs on pump gas.

With an agressive cam (sunbelt/evosport) and some head work I could probably up that number by 30-40HP, but even then, I'm still relatively far from your "300WHP" mark.

Now if all you care about is bragging rights, then you can easily say that my engine has 275HP (at the crank), and therefore with the cams would have well over 300hp.

Now, I spent about $5k on the motor (complete rebuild incl. bolts, guides, bearings, pistons, machining, all new sensors as well as bolt ons like pulleys, intake, headers, custom exhaust, and cams). If you wanted to go with an aggressive cam, then you're looking at about another $3k for top end work...

So for less than $10k you can have a "300+HP" N/A M52 that will be fairly reliable, and insane to drive on the street.
1992 BMW 325i (CHUMPCAR #296 - Metric Homes Racing)
1992 3.0L M52 325i (ex-daily driver - track car only)
2002 330Ci (ex-daily driver - sold!)

Last edited by sb_600; 10-19-2012 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 10-20-2012, 04:11 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by T.Dot_E30 View Post
I donno man, almost everyone I know of locally who went FI had issues eventually with the motor. Without opening the motor, FI on these motors is not proven to be reliable, unless you never drive it hard or make it a garage queen.
I had issues with components around the motor, but not the actual motor itself. To track an FI car reliably you need to up the cooling system to deal with the extra heat and run no more than 8-10 pounds of boost, an m52/s52 with any half decent turbo setup will be making 350-400whp easily with that little boost which is more than enough for any track car. It's all in the motor prep, and putting together an solid setup. With an FI car you gotta be on top of things versus n/a where you can most likely get away with a not-so-great put together motor. There are dozens of guys in the US doing 20-30 track days, drift events etc with boosted m5x motors, I'd say they're up to the task.

On a turbo/supercharged car you cannot expect things(even the motor itself) to last as long as the stock counterpart. Only few can pay to play....

If anyone is wondering, I has a m52b28 with a forged bottom end, o-ringed block and i'm using a stock headgasket. With boost of course. Love it!
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:14 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by sb_600 View Post
So for less than $10k you can have a "300+HP" N/A M52 that will be fairly reliable, and insane to drive on the street.
Word. By the time you get NA 300hp out of an M52, you won't even want to drive it on the street since it'll freak out at low rpm, and won't have any power until the top end.

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Old 10-22-2012, 09:37 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by kenmar View Post
What you do is buy a M5x with good compression, do a refresh on all the gaskets (incl. the head gasket) and then swap it in. With all the gaskets/seals done, the bottom end should last longer than your shell would hold up
Yeah, but if that was the case you might as well spend the extra $300 and put in a MLS gasket like cometic, and a set of ARP's and you're good all the way to 15psi and 350+whp.

In reality it's not expensive to put together an engine. A set of forged rods like Manley, or Crower can be had for less than $500, and pistons come it at around $750. An if you're using an iron block, you're laughing till you hit 500whp. It's the proper assembly and machine work that tells if it will last or not. Like Devon said, it's the assembly that separates the men from the boys. We're working in 0.0001 of an inch in some cases.
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Last edited by SamE30e; 10-22-2012 at 09:41 AM.
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