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Old 11-20-2017, 09:40 AM   #46
Bullet Ride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSI View Post
You have the patience of a saint. Well done.
Thanks man, my patience is definitely growing thin on this thing though lol.
My schedule is pretty open this week so I'm going to try and put in some solid hours after work every day and push through the last of the major patching in hopes that I can get a couple of body guys to come over next week to give me estimates on doing the filler, blocking and paint.
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Old 11-20-2017, 11:41 AM   #47
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Wow, great work
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Old 11-21-2017, 02:05 AM   #48
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At this point, I am thinking F#$K this, all my future projects are rust free southern US cars!!! I don't know how you have the patience for this...BUT amazing work as usual!
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Old 11-21-2017, 03:01 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer Heaven View Post
At this point, I am thinking F#$K this, all my future projects are rust free southern US cars!!! I don't know how you have the patience for this...BUT amazing work as usual!
I agree... next time I'm going on vacation and driving a car home.

It was your car! Sometimes I wish Sam had never bought it lol...
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Old 11-21-2017, 11:29 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet Ride View Post
I agree... next time I'm going on vacation and driving a car home.

It was your car! Sometimes I wish Sam had never bought it lol...
I know, it looked SO solid when I had it...I still regret selling it, just like my 80K E30...

When you finish this, you can do my 1958 Isetta 600... Needs twice the work, but car is half the size!!! Just name your price!
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Old 11-25-2017, 12:36 PM   #51
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You are doing an awesome job dude! Keep it up!
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Old 11-25-2017, 06:13 PM   #52
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Next I tackled the lower rad support, which was rusty beyond patching. Before I cut it off, just in case, I welded a brace across the frame rails... then sawzall'd away...



The new patch from W&N looks like this...



Unfortunately it's only a skin... no back bits where the rad mounts are...



So I welded on a back plate and cut off and re-used the rad mounts...



Little prime for a good time...

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Old 11-25-2017, 06:20 PM   #53
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Next up was the fenders. The after market fenders didn't have the best fitment. The driver's side was ok, and after a little bit of muscle I was able to get the fender gap between the door reasonable...




Unfortunately the passenger side fender could not be made to fit properly. This is a picture from a while back before I had stripped the car down...



That gap is gross...





So since the original fender was still in good shape other than the typical rusty bottom, I cut the bad part off...





And then...



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Old 02-12-2018, 09:26 AM   #54
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Back from the dead... no pics or anything as not much has happened lately... been crazy busy at work.

This weekend I finally found a local shop to do the final body work on the car for a reasonable price. It was definitely a lot harder than I had expected. It seems as though body shops don't like to do these sort of middle of the road jobs too much. It's either a collision shop that only wants to fix fender benders, because that's quick and easy cash, or a restoration shop that only wants to do show quality work and will charge $15-20k for a paint job.

The car is scheduled to go in at the end of April, so now I have a deadline to scramble and get all of the little details left cleaned up and get the car back on it's wheels!
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:35 PM   #55
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I never did post these pics... the bottom corner of each door needed a small patch. They both basically looked like this:

After cut and clean up...



Cut patch to fit...



Weld a little...



Grind a little...




Good enough for me!
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:52 PM   #56
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Since yesterday was a beauty, I was able to weasel the car around in the shop and turn it around to get the nose pointing out... and then spent the afternoon blasting the nose panel and the valance with a princess auto media blaster to help prep it for the paint guy (to help bring down the labour cost). The only reason it took the whole afternoon is because blasting requires lots of CFM. I have a 300gal compressor and I could get about a minute in before the compressor would kick on and then I'd continue to blast for another couple minutes before I'd stop and let the compressor fill back up and then cool down for 5-10min.



After having used it, I can definitely see how getting a shell blasted down to bare metal is worth it for big projects. You really need it to get into tight spots, and it it cleans it up really nice.
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Old 03-08-2018, 11:39 PM   #57
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So this old gal needed to have her expensive... rusty... euro front bumper fitted up just to make sure everything was copacetic before it goes off for paint...



Since the bumper didn't come with any brackets... and because the euro brackets don't fit with the US spec front valance without cutting and welding... and because the only after market option I could find online was going for $200 USD... I set about making my own brackets for next to $0

Taking a page out of the "tucked bumper" crew, I decided to re-use the stock bumper shocks which were otherwise garbage at this point. I carefully drilled a small hole into the shock while holding a rag around the drill bit to keep from getting sprayed when the pressure released.

After draining and compressing the shock as far as it would go I chopped off the crimped end of the outer tube so that I could pull the inner tube out...



In order to get the inner tube out I got a piece of scrap 1"x1" tube and tack welded it to the inner tube...



Then clamped the tube in the vise and tapped on the outer tube until the inner tube was out...



Repeat for the other shock, rinse them out with some brake cleaner and now you have two nice tubes to bolt back in...



*Remove the O-Ring from the inner tube for the next steps*

I slid the inner tubes back in leaving them sticking out a bit so I could grab them. Then I put the bumper on using the side bolts, and a jack stand and piece of wood to get the bumper approximately level and made sure the sides lined up with the wheel well as best as they could...



Then I got a piece of 2"x0.125" flat bar about 7" LG and pre-bent it a few degrees, maybe 5 degrees if I had to guess. Then I clamped it to the inside of the bumper so that the mount hole was well covered and there was material all around the inner shock tube. While it was in there I marked the bolt hole and as much of the tube as I could reach with a marker.

Then I took it off, lined up the tube with the marks and added a few tack welds to hold it in place...



Put it back in the bumper and check that the angle is parallel with the profile of the front valance, adjust if needed...



You can see that the plate is slightly rotated in order to get good coverage on the bolt hole. The square is where the stud goes through the bumper...

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Old 03-08-2018, 11:43 PM   #58
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Then repeat for the other side. Put them back into the tubes, put the bumper back on and make sure that where you marked the bolt hole still lines up and adjust if needed. Fun fact...you can even not pay attention and cut one of the inner tubes a different length and it will still work. Drill the holes and square them up with a small round file... or just drill oversize to clear the square part of the stud...



Final test fit...





Then for shits and gigs I put a few extra pieces back on... holy smoke it actually looks like a car!



The only thing I'm going to do to finalize these is when I pull off the outer body I'm going to drill a clearance hole and weld a nut to it so that I can crank a bolt against the inner tube to lock it in place. It's pretty rigid as is, but the bumper might sag in the middle over time if the inner tubes aren't locked down. And when I reassemble I'll put the o-ring back on the inner tube to help keep moisture out so things don't get too rusty.

That's all for now folks!
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Old 04-10-2018, 01:07 PM   #59
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So with 3 weeks to go until the car goes into paint, I've been trying to tidy up all the little patches and things that I can do to make the job easier for the body shop.

There was a small spot at the bottom corner of the passenger side A-pillar that was right beside the windshield that I knew likely crept under the seal, so I decided to remove the windshield to look at it...



Shit...

... and to make things worse, as I wire wheeled the rust and paint away it became obvious that the previous body shop that painted the car had already "patched" this spot. I used air quotes because the patch was sitting on top and had been blended in with body filler. This means that it was likely still rusting beneath the patch.

In order to fix it the dash had to come out. Not too tough, took about an hour and a half, but mostly because I didn't have any instructions to follow...

Dash makes a good beer holder...



However, with the dash now out...



Shit!... What a hack job body shop that place was!

After various levels of swearing and dirt kicking I got back at it and chopped out what needed to be chopped out in the corner...



The pinch seam along with the contour of the A-pilar and cowl was going to make this a tricky fix. Short of having a clean section cut out of a parts car, there aren't any patch panels available for this area that I'm aware of.

So I started looking in my pile of scraps to see what I had....
Fortunately I still had the rear tail panel that I had cut out...



Around the tail lights is a nice pinch seam, so using that I was able to get this piece...



After a bunch of cutting and trimming and adjusting and more adjusting... and more adjusting I had this little piece...



And got it glued in...



Then I filled in this part...



But made a new piece to bridge the pinch seam...

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Old 04-10-2018, 01:14 PM   #60
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That bottom corner was going to be another tough spot... to make a piece with that bend and profile would be a challenge...

... back to the scraps...

The corner of the tail light had a similar profile...



Could work...



Done!



Now to fix that hole in the middle. I suspect it's also got a patch glued on top from the previous body shop
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