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Old 03-28-2013, 01:12 PM   #61
dcramer
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no, it does not say it has to have higher displacement. It says it can't be available in this market in that car
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:00 PM   #62
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Is the cats part of safety?
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:36 AM   #63
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not that I am aware of, but I'm not a mechanic
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:46 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sb_600 View Post
Nope that won't help either.

When then run the E-test, they check for I/M Readiness. If you CEL has recently been reset, the I/M protocols won't be "ready" and they're know the computer was just reset.

Read more here:

http://www.ene.gov.on.ca/environment...OD_102286.html
Hi Folks.... As a brand new member , brand new BMW owner again ( just imported a 98 Z3 1.9 from Florida ) and having the somewhat aggravating experience of the new OBD testing setup I thought I'd pass on my tale of MOT blindness. I'm currently going to get my 3rd e test ( OBDII reading ) on Friday after having spent $52.00 so far plus $155.00 for a camshaft sensor ( which by the way did improve response as well as gas mileage )
Where the MOT comes in as useless is their generic test for resetting your monitors to read READY . It seems after numerous people have had a shot at checking my OBD that of three people in one day I had three different readings. One showed two not ready's. Another showed all were ready. The E teats itself showed 5 NOT READY !!! The question to me after making sure I put on lots of miles , going thru about $70.00 worth of gas and getting 3 different opinions from the same auto shop from 3 different mechanics was , what exactly does it take to get these monitors to be READY.
It seems there are more opinions about how or what way to drive for how long and how far at at what relative temperature than there are types of cars. I'm currently in the process in the last two days of using this drive cycle that I found on this forum and will use it tomorrow before I go for my 3 rd and hopefully last test . The intent from Ontario's gov'ts is well noted but like most people I've read on this forum I do believe this program has outlived it's usefulness .
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:26 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob98Z31.9 View Post
Hi Folks.... As a brand new member , brand new BMW owner again ( just imported a 98 Z3 1.9 from Florida ) and having the somewhat aggravating experience of the new OBD testing setup I thought I'd pass on my tale of MOT blindness. I'm currently going to get my 3rd e test ( OBDII reading ) on Friday after having spent $52.00 so far plus $155.00 for a camshaft sensor ( which by the way did improve response as well as gas mileage )
Where the MOT comes in as useless is their generic test for resetting your monitors to read READY . It seems after numerous people have had a shot at checking my OBD that of three people in one day I had three different readings. One showed two not ready's. Another showed all were ready. The E teats itself showed 5 NOT READY !!! The question to me after making sure I put on lots of miles , going thru about $70.00 worth of gas and getting 3 different opinions from the same auto shop from 3 different mechanics was , what exactly does it take to get these monitors to be READY.
It seems there are more opinions about how or what way to drive for how long and how far at at what relative temperature than there are types of cars. I'm currently in the process in the last two days of using this drive cycle that I found on this forum and will use it tomorrow before I go for my 3 rd and hopefully last test . The intent from Ontario's gov'ts is well noted but like most people I've read on this forum I do believe this program has outlived it's usefulness .
Why did you change the cam sensor? Was it due to an engine code? I'm going through the same with mine now, engine code due to CPS, but I think it's got more to do with the Vanos system than the sensor itself
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:28 PM   #66
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The cam sensor was changed due to a code reading on he 1st e test . After that was replaced and the computer cleared of that fault was when all the not ready nonsense started .
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:32 PM   #67
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Sorry forgot to mention that after clearing the fault and then driving the car before the retest , after scanning , the fault was gone . Just left with the not readies.....
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:25 PM   #68
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Sorry forgot to mention that after clearing the fault and then driving the car before the retest , after scanning , the fault was gone . Just left with the not readies.....
That's good to know. For the non readies make sure you follow the procedure exactly as explained in the MTO manual. you're supposed to have the AC on in idle for a few mins and bunch of other stuff I don't fully remember now
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Old 05-17-2013, 12:35 PM   #69
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Took my car in and in less than 10 minutes it was completed...
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Old 05-17-2013, 03:34 PM   #70
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Just to follow up , today took car for 3 rd drive cycle and then went for retest and this time only had one not ready so therefore a PASS finally. Only took a $100.00 worth of testing . By the way the MOT GENERIC TEST IS RUBBISH for my car at least . A big " THANK YOU " to the gentleman who posted the drive cycle to perform . For anyone who wishes to try it this was what I did:

1) idle from a cold start for 2 and 1/2 min
2) drive 20-40 mph for 5 min
3) drive 40-60 mph for 15 min
4) decelerate from 60 mph as quickly and safely as you can to a stop and idle for 5 min

Most important of all do not exceed 3000 RPM or 60 mph as this ruins the test and nothing gets reset.

For what it's worth it worked for me . Who knows 1 drive cycle may be all you need. Good luck.
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Old 11-16-2013, 09:48 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Bob98Z31.9 View Post
Just to follow up , today took car for 3 rd drive cycle and then went for retest and this time only had one not ready so therefore a PASS finally. Only took a $100.00 worth of testing . By the way the MOT GENERIC TEST IS RUBBISH for my car at least . A big " THANK YOU " to the gentleman who posted the drive cycle to perform . For anyone who wishes to try it this was what I did:

1) idle from a cold start for 2 and 1/2 min
2) drive 20-40 mph for 5 min
3) drive 40-60 mph for 15 min
4) decelerate from 60 mph as quickly and safely as you can to a stop and idle for 5 min

Most important of all do not exceed 3000 RPM or 60 mph as this ruins the test and nothing gets reset.

For what it's worth it worked for me . Who knows 1 drive cycle may be all you need. Good luck.

So is this the best way of going INTO the test?

Also - my car is swapped from manual to automatic so the check engine light bulb will be on regardless. The bulb has been pulled. Also, one of my o2 sensors is donezo - need that fixed before the test? what a pain this is.
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Old 11-16-2013, 10:27 PM   #72
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Have you seen a bmw recommended drive cycle for a test, you only dream it is that easy for EVERY test to be performed and ready, dream!
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:34 AM   #73
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rocco taught me how to get a car to do all the tests in about 25 minutes. most tests will run on the highway when you're feathering the throttle. evap, secondary air and a few others also run at idle.

you can buy an innova 3100 on ebay for about 50$ (retail is over 300$) and that will read all OBD2 codes including >p1000 manufacturer specific codes, as well as pending DTC's, read IM readyness and provide freeze frame data. It actually has a light that goes green when everything is good. if that light goes green, vehicle will pass etest
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:42 PM   #74
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So is this the best way of going INTO the test?

Also - my car is swapped from manual to automatic so the check engine light bulb will be on regardless. The bulb has been pulled. Also, one of my o2 sensors is donezo - need that fixed before the test? what a pain this is.
The O2 sensor will need to be replaced. As far as the engine light goes, I believe that it will automatically fail regardless what the check engine light is on for. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I will ask one of our emissions guys tomorrow and get back to you.
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:06 PM   #75
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yes, you will automatically fail the e-test if your CEL is on (it reads OBD2 codes directly from the ecu, doesn't matter if there's a bulb or not.)
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